Since I've received some questions about my analog developing and digitizing workflow, I thought, lets make a small tutorial. This is probably not the best workflow, but it's the way I do it...
I shoot with a Mamiya RB67 and a Rolleicord TLR.
Since I don't have a metering prism, I use a digital camera as a lightmeter.
Most of the photo's are shot with Kodak Tri-X and Kodak Portra.
I like to do the (black and white) developing process myself. With the use of a Paterson tank, you only have to load the film onto the reel in a dark room or changing bag. The rest of the process can be done in daylight.
As for chemicals I use:
Developer: Kodak HC-110 (Dil. B 16ml/500ml, 6min. @ 20`C)
Stop: Amaloco S10
Fix: Amaloco X89 Extrafix
The "Dev it Darkroom timer" app is a very handy timer. It's not only a timer, but can also adjust the developing time for the current temperature.
I like to process my negatives in Photoshop. So, they need to be digitized.
There are several ways to do this.
Since I already have a digital camera and a macro lens, I tried using them first. It was not bad at all.
When I knew it worked well, I searched for an old enlarger on the flea market and found one for free. Changed the head with a diy mounting plate for the tripod mount ring of the macrolens. As a light source I use an X-ray viewer. My settings are around: ISO 100, F8, 1/15th.
I use liveview to check the focus and a cable release to avoid camera shake.
I asked my colleague who has an Epson V500 photoscanner to scan one of my negatives, so I could compare the results.
The result was a bit sharper when digitized with the dslr/macro lens combo, so I keep on using this method.
For maximum sharpness, I take 2 photo's of 1 negative and merge them in photoshop. The small side of the negative will fill the large side of my sensor. So, the digital camera is 90 degrees rotated.
After merging is done, I crop the image (remove the borders)
In camera raw you can invert it to a positive image, adjust the contrast et cetera.
The end result is 45 Megapixel photo with lots of detail.
Since I use my digital camera as a lightmeter, I can compare the fully digital images with the digitized analog photo's.
More images here